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Yeast: the canary in the grocery store

Posted on May 12, 2020May 12, 2020 by Wegmaniacal

At the start of each shift, I do a quick circuit, marking all the touchstones. Sanitizers, wipes, toilet paper, meat, and yeast, always in that order.

Inventory, I realize, isn’t a true measure of recovery. I am, after all, wearing a mask as I walk the aisles, and the store is closed overnight, as it never used to be.

But the shelves have become an indicator of how close to normal we’re getting and how far from normal we remain.

Wipes and sanitizers are almost always absent. (Much of the limited supply, for now, is being diverted to store use.)

We’ve had toilet paper for weeks. Although the offerings in the meat case have dwindled, there’s still a good selection.

It’s the yeast shelf where the arrow usually points to empty.

Instead, shoppers receive written instructions for how to make their own from flour or “milled wheat/wheat berries.” (I don’t know about you, but I’m not doing that.)

We have received a few deliveries, but the packets always are snapped up within a day.

Weeks ago, before we grasped the enormity of the pandemic or the persistent nature of panic buying, a customer asked me where to find yeast. I led him to the section only to find it stripped clean, which puzzled both of us.

Before COVID-19, I was a regular purchaser of yeast for homemade baguettes, beignets, or my favorite crusty loaves. I’d never seen Wegmans run out. I assumed, rightly or wrongly, that few people made bread at home.

That was so long ago. Now everyone has an obsession with the staff of life.

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About This Site

Upstate New Yorkers love their Wegmans, with a bond that newer customers in other parts of the East are discovering. As a customer and former employee, I share the obsession.

I launched Wegmaniacal in December 2019, to examine the cultlike following the company has developed since its founding in Rochester more than a century ago.

The site stagnated when I left Wegmans and returned to other endeavors. But with rising grocery prices, lowering environmental regulation, and pharmaceutical challenges, it’s time to resume writing here.

Much of what I have to say is positive. Nevertheless, the company is family owned and most of its operations are conducted in private. As a longtime journalist, I’ll also delve into topics Danny Wegman would prefer to keep behind closed doors.

— Laurie Bennett

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